Wearing Heikke Salonen's patched long coat, £1,585. From Hostem and Farfetch.

Wearing Heikke Salonen’s patched long coat, £1,585. From Hostem and Farfetch.

As a fashion journalist, the chance to try on the clothes I write about is still too rare. And it’s important. The relationship with a piece of clothing changes – in a very visceral way – every time you put it on. So when East London store Hostem invited me in to check out SS16, Heikke Salonen’s cult Blackstock collection was high on the list.

I first came across Blackstock last October, as Finnish designer and RCA graduate Salonen prepared to re-launch his eponymous label after a four year hiatus completing stints as head of design at Diesel Female and roles at Maison Margiela MM6.

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Inspired by music and subcultures, Deadstock explores old preoccupations from fresh perspectives. There is, amongst some designers – including Heikke – a growing post-apocalyptic sensibility; an envisaging of a Blade Runner-esque universe in which scraps are revalued and re-used, because nothing new is available.

Silhouettes refer to times past yet are utilitarian and unisex, designed for a world in which you have to move to survive. These are clothes for children of the Anthropocene, the epoch that begins when human activities start to have a significant impact on the Earth’s ecosystems.

The first thing I notice about Salonen’s coat is its weight, restrictive yet cocooning, as if the woolen fabric – stitched over with swatches of material and photographic prints – could stop bullets. It is a little too big, which perversely feels just right – as if I have borrowed it from someone who is no longer around. And the tailoring: for all its raw finishing and dangling threads, the coat is cut by a master’s hand – and Salonen is nothing if not a master of cut.

For the 20 minutes I wear it, the coat takes me – as all good clothing can – into another world. I value each adventure.

Heikki Salonen Deadstock is exclusively available through Hostem, and through Farfetch.

 

Patched long coat, £1,585, Heikke Salonen. From Hostem and Farfetch.

Patched long coat, £1,585, Heikke Salonen. www.Farfetch.com

 

Bell dress, £XX, Heikke Salonen. www.farfetch.com

Bell dress, £385, Heikke Salonen. www.farfetch.com

 

Five pocket jeans, £XX, Heikke Salonen. www.farfetch.com

Five pocket jeans, £985, Heikke Salonen. www.farfetch.com

Deadstock shoes

Patch reindeer skin sole slippers, £255, Heikke Salonen. www.farfetch.com