On Day One of LFW SS17, the focus on and interest in UK fashion’s young guns is almost palpable. And while we continue to mourn the absence of Jonathan Saunders and Meadham Kirchhoff, a new wave of female names have come up to take their place: of the eight new designers picked for the the British Fashion Council’s NewGen mentoring scheme, seven are female. Names such as Molly Goddard, Paula Knorr and Shrimps bring a new light to the event, womanly but unashamedly bolshy and searching, embracing feminine tropes and turning them on their heads. There’s a lot to love this season.
‘Although Teatum Jones are making a name for themselves with their maximalist fashion, the real stand out pieces were the more simple ones. White cotton shirts cinched at the waist and with oversized cuffs felt distinctly Japanese, and the patchwork winkle-pickers looked as if Quentin Blake had designed them for a marvellously colourful Roald Dahl character.’ www.wonderlandmagazine.com
‘Guests to the presentation wandered through an artificial garden, strewn with painstakingly arranged baby’s breath and adorned with wooden standing swings, to admire the angular cuts and fabric combinations that make up Tai’s latest take on traditionally feminine silhouettes.’ www.theupcoming.co.uk
‘Slits that cut through matte black wool like beams of light – it’s aperture poetics, technical, yet unquantifiable. It strokes, rather than strikes, that filmy balance between exposure and protection, that’s in portraiture as it is in fashion: a bateau neck here, a slice of belly there, then sock suspenders for extra poise, buttoned-up shirting. For spring, Eudon Choi looks up to the oeuvre of late American artist Francesca Woodman, whose blurry nudes that trembled with life were sealed into legend with her suicide, in 1981, at the tender age of 22.’ http://ashadedviewonfashion.com
‘Marta Jakubowksi’s SS17 collection was literally an ode to all the ecstatic pleasures of childhood; sound tracked by candy-floss sweet nursery rhymes – including Pippi Långstrump, probably the greatest book character of all time, Harry Potter crew aside – and all taking place on a giant, bubblegum pink carousel. Marta gets us.’
‘An alumni of Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East talent initiative and the London College of Fashion, Lo’s USP is girlie avant garde clothing that’s rooted in fantasy and fairytale. Accordingly, the collection on offer today cited everything from magic carpets and snake charmers to Venetian clowns and Japanese cartoons.’ www.standard.co.uk
‘The theme of this season’s collection was “Modern Marie Antoinette, Playful Opulence, with Gauguin and Edward Wadsworth influences,” featuring lace and Broderie Anglaise alongside the signature Shrimps faux fur. The fluffy flirtiness and tonal, pearl-coloured pyjama pieces and exquisite, voluminous dresses were perfectly complemented with four custom-designed Shrimps x Converse sneakers in textured shades of green, pink and blue, adding a new dimension of cool to the collection. Shotgun a pair in deconstructed gingham!’ www.refinery29.com
‘Street cast models confidently stomped down the catwalk in the collection which challenged conventional ideas of gender and sexuality, sporting everything from buzzcuts to yellow waves and pink waist-length hair, held back with sparkly ‘GIRLS’ grips. Ashley’s army, as ever, was ferociously cool and fiercely individual, wearing the eye-catching, tongue-in-cheek statement pieces all of London’s savviest kids will be wearing next year.’ www.refinery29.com