The references: Sumo, inspired by Astrid Andersen’s recent visit to Japan. This is a different kind of masculinity, examined through a Far Eastern perspective of ritual and history.
The clothes: For a second, I thought the models were going to come out in traditional sumo nappies. Thank the heck not – though some of the models could have carried it. Instead, kimono wrap tops over silky black trousers and sports silhouettes – this is Andersen after all – reinterpreted in vibrant colourways made up a collection that offered men windows of vulnerability, expressed through black lace and sheer fabrics. A print based on black brocade provided a running motif.
The palette: Sunset hues, starting with rose, moving through burgundy, black and pink. Orange was key. Andersen has used it before. Brash and strongly associated with the 1970s, the colour signifies peace and tranquility in the East.
The accessories: Andersen worked with LuisaViaRoma to develop sexy sun caps and backpacks, which went on sale simultaneously with them going down the catwalks at LC:M.
The standout look: The opening look, a rose kimono tied at the waist and silk track pants, set the bar high.
The challenges: Anderson’s sheer tops and lace t-shirts, I imagine, will still be tricky for the man in the street to contemplate. Ditto sumo-inspired necklines which sat just below the nipples and are basically bustiers for blokes.
From the show report: ‘The echoing of familiar concepts from contemporary urban counter-culture including hierarchy, respect and intimidation is contrasted by restraint, semi-religious classical codes and an aesthetic vulnerability that resonates with the underlying themes and values of the Astrid Andersen brand.’