By STEPHANIE KING @FranklySPKing
The references: ’80s sportswear infused with Star Wars iconography and neoplasticism influences.
The clothes: Intergalactic skater boys and urban space explorers dominated the collection. Models were prepared for planetary expedition with bomber jackets, athletic short shorts and protective oversized coats. Indigo lurex blazers and copper polo shirt relatives twinkled early on, while bold De Stijl-reminiscent vests were less subtle counterparts. The ’80s work trouser received an update by way of a thigh cutaway, and ‘youthful disobedience’ was reinforced via rolled sleeves and slogan-emblazoned outerwear. Voyagers of space and sea apparently, Zhou’s models also donned pieces garnished with nautical rope finishings and nylon hole detailing. As the Chinese designer’s show reached its crescendo, Star Wars print vests, coats and beach bags strode onto the runway, putting the original Storm Troopers’ march to shame.
The palette: An interplanetary spectrum of colour — ranging from the muted metallics, steely blues and iceberg whites of the moon and stars, to the citrus tones of Mars, Jupiter and the sun — Zhou’s space-inspired pieces were offset against a jet black backdrop.
The accessories: This season’s most directional accessory, the sock-and-slider duo made an appearance, as did the equally on-trend trainer: KKtP was to thank for the patent fire engine red, white, and black offerings that stomped down the catwalk. Visor-like sunglasses by CHairEYES and the occasional large disc utility belt reinforced the sporty space traveller aesthetic.
The standout look: While the matching metallic blazer-and-shorts look typified Zhou’s Hyperdrive collection, it was hard to ignore the second-last look: a Darth Vader printed vest and coat combo.
The challenges: Aside from Anders Sølvsten Thomsen’s entwining models’ heads with string or smearing red lipstick on their faces, perhaps the most difficult look to pull off was the one-piece. More unitard than jumpsuit, it’d take a very secure man to get out in that number.
From the show report: ‘Xander Zhou explores the idea of gender and sexuality through new silhouettes and materials, as he relentlessly experiments with the male form … Models stride their way through sand, clutching beach bags with iconic space-age prints, as mysticism permeates through the collection like a dark force.’